Car Lowering Spring Calculator
Estimate the effects of lowering your vehicle by 2 inches using different spring options. Calculate expected ride height change, spring rate impact, and potential handling effects.
Ever wonder why a 2‑inch drop makes a car stare back at you from the street? A subtle dip can tighten the stance, sharpen handling, and give the whole ride a sportier silhouette. The trick is doing it without wrecking the geometry or compromising safety.
Quick Takeaways
- Choose the right lowering method for your budget and skill level.
- Measure wheel‑to‑ground distance before and after any change.
- Use proper tools and torque specs to avoid damaging mounting points.
- Get a professional alignment after the drop.
- Know the trade‑offs: ride comfort vs. handling.
Understanding the Core Options
Three main families can shave roughly two inches off a factory ride:
- Installing Lowering Springs is a set of shorter, stiffer coil springs that replace the stock units to reduce ride height. They are the cheapest and simplest route.
- Swapping to a Coilover Suspension provides an adjustable shock‑spring combo that lets you fine‑tune drop, damping, and rebound.
- Fitting an Air Suspension kit lets you raise or lower on demand, but the price jumps quickly.
Each method has its own cost, difficulty, and long‑term impact. Below is a side‑by‑side look.
Method | Typical Cost (AUD) | Installation Difficulty | Adjustability | Best For |
---|---|---|---|---|
Lowering Springs | 200‑400 | Basic DIY | None - fixed drop | Budget street‑car looks |
Coilover Suspension | 800‑1500 | Intermediate | Height & damping | Track enthusiasts |
Air Suspension | 2000‑4000 | Advanced (often professional) | Height on‑the‑fly | Show cars, variable‑ride needs |
Step‑by‑Step Guide Using Lowering Springs
If you decide lowering springs are the right fit, follow these detailed steps to achieve a clean 2‑inch drop.
- Gather the right tools. You’ll need a jack, jack stands, socket set (including a 13 mm and 15 mm for most chassis), a spring compressor (optional but safer), and a torque wrench.
- Measure the current ride height. With the car on level ground, measure from the wheel’s center to the ground on both sides. Write the numbers down - they become a reference point.
- Raise the car safely. Position the jack under the manufacturer’s lift points, lift the wheel side, then place a jack stand. Repeat for each corner.
- Remove the wheel and stock spring. Unbolt the wheel, then loosen the spring perches. Use the spring compressor if the spring is under tension; this prevents sudden release.
- Install the lowering spring. Seat the new spring on the perches, making sure the spring seat aligns with the factory grooves. Re‑torque the perches to the vehicle’s specification (usually around 30 Nm for many Australian models).
- Re‑mount the wheel. Bolt the wheel back, torquing the lug nuts to the OEM spec (often 100‑120 Nm).
- Lower the car and repeat. Once all corners have the new springs, carefully lower the car and check for any unevenness.
- Perform a professional alignment. A 2‑inch drop alters Camber, Caster, and Kingpin Offset. A reputable alignment shop will bring these back within safe limits.
Typical drop for a set of lowering springs is 1.5‑2.5 inches, so you’ll likely land right at the target.
Key Technical Concepts You Should Know
Understanding a few suspension terms helps you avoid costly mistakes.
- Spring Rate is the stiffness measured in kg/mm. Lowering springs usually have a higher rate to support the reduced travel.
- Suspension Travel is the distance the wheel moves up and down. Dropping the car shortens travel, which can affect ride comfort.
- Shock Absorbers (or dampers) work with the springs to control bounce. After a drop, you may need stiffer shocks.
- Vehicle Chassis mounting points must handle the new load angles. Inspect for any cracks or signs of fatigue before installation.
Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them
Even seasoned hobbyists hit snags. Here’s a quick cheat‑sheet.
- Incorrect torque. Over‑tightening perches can strip threads; under‑tightening lets the spring shift.
- Neglecting alignment. Skipping this step leads to premature tire wear and unpredictable handling.
- Using the wrong spring length. Measure your vehicle’s original spring length and compare to the new part’s specs; a mismatch can cause the car to sit too low or too high.
- Riding the suspension too hard. After a drop, the suspension is stiffer. Adjust driving style on bumpy roads to prevent bottoming out.

When to Consider Upgrading Beyond Springs
If you hit the limits of comfort or performance, think about:
- Coilover kits. They give you the ability to fine‑tune ride height and damping after each event.
- Air suspension. Perfect for show cars that need a sudden lift for transport or a variable drop for different driving conditions.
- Adjustable control arms. These let you correct any camber shift introduced by the lowered stance.
Checklist Before You Hit the Road
- All bolts torqued to spec.
- Professional alignment completed.
- Clearances checked for brake calipers and wheel arches.
- Test drive on a smooth surface, listening for any unusual noises.
- Inspect tire wear after 200 km.
Can I lower my car 2 inches with only springs?
Yes, most aftermarket lowering springs are engineered to drop a vehicle by 1.5‑2.5 inches. They are the cheapest way to achieve a visual and handling change, but you must still get an alignment after installation.
Will lowering my car affect ride comfort?
Dropping the ride height stiffens the suspension because the springs are shorter and have a higher spring rate. You’ll feel more road feedback and a firmer ride, especially over bumps.

Do I need new shocks with lowering springs?
It’s not mandatory, but pairing stiffer shocks with lowering springs improves control and reduces dive during hard braking. Many enthusiasts upgrade to sport‑tuned shock absorbers for a balanced feel.
How much does a professional alignment cost in Australia?
A standard four‑wheel alignment at a reputable shop in Adelaide typically runs between AUD 80 and 130, depending on the vehicle and whether you need a full suspension check.
Can I lower a car that already has air suspension?
Yes, many air‑suspension kits offer a “low‑ride” setting that brings the car down 2 inches or more. However, you’ll need an air‑compressor upgrade and possibly new air bags to maintain ride quality.
Will lowering affect my car’s warranty?
Modifying the suspension can void the manufacturer’s warranty on related components, especially if the work is not documented or performed by an authorized dealer. Keep receipts and have the work done by a reputable shop to mitigate risk.
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